The Basics

Lou D'Alessandris of Malco Automotive wrote:

What is a swirl mark?

A swirl mark is a small scratch created by buffing with compounds. After compounding a paint finish, it is usually necessary to use a polish to remove the light swirl marks left behind. A "swirl mark" created by a hand application is most often not an actual swirl mark, rather it is just a smudge or a streak caused when applying a wax or polish.

What is a clearcoat finish?

A clearcoat paint finish is an automobile finish that consists of a base coat of paint that contains color pigments with a clear finish over top. This clearcoat layer is essentially a coating of automotive paint without any color pigments added. The outer clearcoat paint adds an additional layer of protection and helps keep the paint from oxidizing.

What is a single-stage finish?

A single-stage finish is a paint finish without a clearcoat layer. The top layer of a single-stage finish is the equivalent of the base coat in a clearcoat finish. Single-stage finishes are more likely to suffer from oxidation, a condition that refers to the fading of color due to the loss of natural oils from the top layers of paint. Single-stage finishes tend to be thicker than clearcoat finishes, meaning that you can buff longer and remove more paint without damaging the finish.

What is a polish?

A polish is an intermediate step between a compound and a wax. Polishes typically contain light abrasives to remove minor scratches and swirls, and are essentially a paint conditioner.

What is tire sling, and what causes it?

Tire sling occurs when a tire coated with a solvent-based dressing is not allowed the proper drying time. If the wheel is moved before the solvents in the tire dressing can evaporate, the liquid can be thrown off onto surrounding panels. If the mixture of solvent, resin and tire plasticizers contact a painted or plastic panel, a brownish stain can occur.

What is a wash and wax carwash soap?

A wash and wax product is a carwash soap that lifts and removes dirt, grime and other soils, while leaving behind gloss agents to give a temporary protective coating.

What are the key features of extraction machines?

• PSI: PSI is a measure of pump pressure, measured in pounds per square inch of air pressure. The ideal pump pressure is between 60 psi and 100 psi. Anything lower than 60 psi is ineffective, while pressures above 100 psi can cause the fluid to bounce off the carpet instead of penetrating.
  
• Vacuum Strength: Vacuum strength is measured in inches of water lift. A strong vacuum motor will have more lift and remove more water, leading to a shorter drying time. Avoid machines that offer less than 100 inches of water lift
  
• Tank Size: Tank size is critical in high-volume applications. The smaller the tank size, the more often you will have to stop to refill the machine with the cleaning solution. Large detail shops will likely need a larger tank size, up to 10 gallons, while a small shop could get by with a 4 or 5 gallon tank.

ToyotaCilicas.com wrote:

Washing is the process of removing loose dirt and road film on the top of your car's paint surfaces. A good car wash solution provides lubrication to prevent scratching and conditioners to maintain the shine.

Washing can be a double-edged sword, though, as even the mildest soaps can remove the natural oils from your car's paint, causing oxidation (paint starvation). Detergents can dull your car's finish even faster. For years, BMW, Jaguar, Mercedes-Benz, Ferrari and most other fine automobile makers recommended using only pure water to wash your car. When you find a shampoo you like, be sure to follow the manufacturer's recommendations for usage. Using too much shampoo will cause streaking and reduces the longevity of your wax.

Here are some tips to make washing easier:

1. Wash the wheels first!
   
2. Make sure your car is cool and work in the shade, if possible. A hot surface causes the wash and rinse water to evaporate too quickly, increasing the likelihood of water spotting. One trick is to park on a slight incline. This allows rinse water to run off moldings, trim, and recessed areas better. Start by thoroughly wetting the car's finish with a medium spray of water to remove loose grit and surface dirt.
   
3. Use a car wash shampoo specifically formulated for automotive use. Look for a shampoo containing surface conditioners and natural oils. These oils act as a lubricant. Sand and abrasive grit slide off in the rinse water without scratching the surface. These shampoos cost a little more but are worth every penny if you own a dark color car. Follow the shampoo manufacturer's directions for the proper mix ratio. Using too much shampoo is wasteful and may leave a filmy residue on the surface.
   
4. I prefer a natural (not synthetic) sea sponge, cotton chenille pad, or sheepskin wash mitt for washing. These tools have a large number of fine filaments that draw dirt and grime away from the surface being cleaned into their internal structure. Synthetic (flat sided) sponges and wash clothes can trap dirt, grit, and grime on the surface which can scratch your car's paint. If you use a natural sea sponge, use the outer "soft" side for washing, not the harder "cut" side, and always rinse new sponges thoroughly to remove any remaining sand or shell particles. 100% cotton chenille wash mitts and pads are also excellent as they hold lots of soapy water and are gentle to your paint.
   
5. Start washing from the top down and rinse the car often. Frequent rinsing is especially important if you are using a wash containing natural oils. While these oils cushion the paint and minimize abrasion they are heavier than water and can leave a film if allowed to set on the car. I use a final rinse of free flowing water (nozzle off the hose) allowing the water to sheet off the car. Summer is tar, sap and bug season. In the summer months, bugs are at full population, trees produce more sap, and the heat softens the asphalt, producing tar balls on tires. While tar and tree sap can be difficult to remove, they do not present a threat to your paint's finish. Bug stains, like bird droppings, are very acidic and represent a significant danger to the beauty of your paint and trim. Below are listed the proper methods to deal with these common detailing problems.

Road Tar

As you drive, your car is bombarded with small specks of asphalt, tire rubber, grease and oils kicked up by the cars and trucks in front of you. Left on your car's finish, these petroleum-based contaminates will firmly affix themselves to every exterior surface. Soap and water washing will do little to remove these ugly black spots.

To remove road tar you need a solvent. Most commercial tar removers contain kerosene, mineral spirits or another petroleum distillate combined with lubricants to surround and buffer the road tar from your paint. Of the petroleum distillate products I've tried, Stoner Tarminator is my favorite. However, I prefer to use natural products where possible. Of the natural products I've found, Stoner XENIT, a strong citrus based cleaner, is king. XENIT removes heel marks from your doorsills, too.

Tree Sap

Removing tree sap from a car's finish is a bit more difficult than tar, as hardened sap can scratch your paint. I've found that by hand-rubbing the sap spots with mineral spirits or denatured alcohol, I'm able to easily remove the sap without damaging the finish. Mineral spirits and denatured alcohol acts as a solvent to break up and dissolve the sap.

If there is a large amount of sap on the car, or if the sap has been left on the finish for an extended period of time, it can be a lot of work to remove. For these cases, I discovered that hitting the affected areas with a light-duty buffing compound removes the hardened surface on the sap spots. Then I can hit the sap with the mineral spirits to remove it. The light duty buffing compound softens the sap so the mineral spirits or denatured alcohol can do its job. The goal is to use the least pressure possible to reduce the risk of scratching the paint. After removing heavy sap, I always buff the treated areas with a good polish to clean up any marks created during hand-rubbing with solvent. The treated area must also be re-waxed.

Insects

What's the last thing that goes through a bug's head when it hits your windshield? His rear end, of course! All joking aside, the head-on collision of that juicy June Bug on your car's beautiful paint and trim is far from one-sided. As the bug's exoskeleton explodes, acidic fluids are firmly imbedded in the surface of your car's paint.

Did you know that shellac is a bug byproduct? Think of it, that beautiful, old antique table you love is covered with dried bug juice (yuck!). Bug splats on your car amount to little more than shellac mixed with nasty bug parts. Any attempt to remove the catalyzed remains without the use of a special cleaning solution could result in scratched paint.

The secret to removing insect remains is to loosen and dissolve them with a solvent that will cut through the shellac. Porsche's fanatical desire to prevent paint damage resulted in the development of Porsche Tequipment Insect Remover. This citric acid based cleaning solution will gently remove even the most stubborn bug remains. For bugs with a little extra grip, Tequipment Insect Remover includes a special cleaning sponge. P21S Total Auto Wash and a special bug sponge also work exceptionally well.

If you have a particularly large bug mess, I have discovered a trick that seems to work pretty well. If you use a pre-wax cleaner, such as Pinnacle Paintwork Cleansing Lotion or P21S Cleansing Lotion, apply a small dab to the offending bug splat. Next, cover the spot with a wadded up tissue. Let it sit for a few minutes, then pinch up the mess and give it a soft wipe with the back side of the tissue. Voila! The bug mess is gone.

After Removing Tar, Sap & Bugs

All of the chemicals used to remove the aforementioned road stains also remove your wax or sealants. After removing tar, sap or bugs, plan to spot wax or re-wax your vehicle. If you don't have time to wax right away, use a quick detailing spray that contains wax. Eagle One's Wet Spray Wax, a quick spray wax, is great for this kind of spot waxing, too.

Glass

Have you ever noticed how much better your car looks when the windows are perfectly clean? Yet, many of us ignore the windows when we wash because it adds a few precious minutes. Forget the time involved in keeping your glass clean for a moment, have you ever thought about how hazy, dirty windows can be a safety hazard? Driving your car with dirty, hazy windows on a rainy night or in heavy traffic, straining to see, is a driving impairment. You should consider this a true danger.

In addition to being a hazard, the effects of dirty glass can quickly ruin the appearance of your perfectly polished and waxed automobile. Cleaning your windows is one of the most tedious tasks you will face. After you have completed all other detailing tasks, put the perfect touch on your car by detailing you car's glass.

Glass Cleaners

Just as in selecting car shampoo and wax, no two car enthusiasts can agree on the ultimate glass cleaner. Some people like ammonia cleaners, others swear by TSP, while the purists will use nothing but clear water. Whatever you use, the principles are the same: clean, dry and polish.

I highly discourage the use of ammonia-based glass cleaners on your car. While ammonia is a great glass cleaner for the home, ammonia is harmful to many car surfaces including vinyl, rubber, and leather. More importantly, the use of ammonia inside your car is harmful to your health. As a substitute to ammonia, I prefer citric acid, alcohol, or mechanical cleaners.

Glass cleaners in a spray bottle work fine. The only problem is over spray on the dash and upholstery. As it is difficult to direct the spray of glass cleaners, you will have the best luck spraying one side of a clean towel, wiping the glass, and they drying with the other side of the towel.

Many professional detailers use plain water for wiping and cleaning the windows and dry the glass with newspaper. Unlike paper towels and most cotton towels, newspaper does not leave behind lint and the ink acts as a glass polish. The only draw back to this method is the newsprint ink on your hands when you're done. Be sure to wash your hands before touching your upholstery.

Steps for Cleaning Windows

Start your window cleaning with the driver's door and front passenger door. If your door has a window frame, lower the window approximately one inch to allow access to the top part of the glass. This part should be cleaned and dried first. Spray with glass cleaner and buff dry. Now roll the window back up and clean the remainder of the window. Pay attention to the corner of the windows, as this is where you will get most smears and streaks. Don't forget your driver's side and passenger side mirrors.

While you're sitting down in the passenger's seat, clean the inside of the windshield. The inside of the windshield is easier to clean from the passenger's side as your access is not obstructed by the steering wheel. Take your time around the rearview mirror as it is only glued to your windshield. If you bump into the rearview mirror hard enough or at the right angle, you can break it loose from the glass.

The inside of the rear window is the most difficult to reach and should be done last. The best technique for cleaning your rear window is to use the backside of your hand to guide your towel down into the corners. Trying to use the palm of your hand will force you to be a contortionist and draw strange looks from your neighbors.

Cleaning Spotted Glass

Some parts of the country are burdened with extremely hard water. Hard water is water that contains excessive trace elements including calcium, iron, lime, and other minerals found in streams and rivers. These trace elements remain on your glass when water from sprinklers or washing air dries. These hard water spots attach themselves to glass like white on rice. If left on your glass for very long, hard water spots will not wash off with shampooing or regular glass cleaners.

In my experience, there are only two ways to remove hard water spots. The first is to use distilled white vinegar. If your water spots are mild, you can dilute the vinegar 2:1 with water. Heavy spots may require pure vinegar. Either way, the vinegar will not harm you or your car. Vinegar is a very mild acid, which dissolves the alkaline-based mineral water deposits with ease.

If hard water spots are allowed to remain for more than a week or two, they may etch the glass. So, even though you have removed the minerals causing the water spots, the spots remain as damage to your glass. In these cases, it is necessary to polish the glass. Until recently, there were a number of glass polishes on the market. The two best products were Eagle One Glass Polish & RainX Glass Polish. However, both of these products have been discontinued due to little demand.

In my experience, any light (low abrasive) car polish that does not contain paint feeding oils will work as a good glass polish. Eagle One Scratch Remover is a good example of a polish that does not contain oils and works well on glass, as does P21S Multi-Surface Finish Restorer. There are two ways to use these polishes. The most gentle is to use an old t-shirt to polish the spotted area and buff to full luster. The second is to use the polish with #00 or finer synthetic steel wool to remove the spots then buff with an old t-shirt.

If your glass is heavily pitted, or mildly scratched, you can also use polish to restore the finish. In this case, it may be necessary to use a buffer in order to achieve the desired results. In some cases, the glass may be so deeply pitted, etched, or scratched that the inevitable must occur, you must replace the glass.

Cleaning Window Tint Film

Window tint film is often applied to the inside windows to shade passengers or provide privacy. Window tint film is a thin sheet of Mylar plastic. Mylar easily scratches and will be destroyed by ammonia. To clean tinted windows, use mild cleaners and water only.

Tint film that has been scratched can be polished with cleaners designed for the vinyl windows often found on convertible tops. The product I recommend for polishing and regular maintenance of window tint film is Plexus. Plexus comes in spray and is safe for use on plastic, plexiglass, and window tint film. In addition to polishing your window tint film, Plexus works great on your tail light and headlight covers.

Windshield Wipers

Windshield wipers are necessary to clean your windshield and rear window when it rains, snows, becomes bug ridden, or dirty from long road trips. Wipers perform best when the rubber is in good shape and the glass is fairly clean. You should make it a habit to clean your front and rear wiper blades at the same time you clean your glass. After cleaning your glass, use a damp cloth to wipe the rubber blades, removing bug residue, wax, and other dirt build-up.

Although rubber dressing helps preserve, protect, and beautify the rubber and vinyl parts on your car, you should not use dressings on your wiper blades. Rubber dressing on your blades will cause streaking and smearing, impairing your vision. The best overall maintenance of your blades is keeping them clean.

No amount of cleaning will keep your blades in perfect condition. Wiper blades wear with each use. Most wiper blades will last about one year. When your blades become worn, dried, or faulty replace them with a new set. Most manufacturers recommend replacing wiper blades at the beginning of fall.

Final Touches

If your car is a year or more old, a close inspection may reveal dirt build-up in the corners of your windshield and rear window around the trim. To remove this caked on gunk, use an old toothbrush or detailing brush with your spray cleaner. Before cleaning, lay a towel at the base of the window to catch drips.

Spray your brush with window cleaner and shake off the excess cleaner. Use your brush to scrub along the trim, breaking loose the dirt. Use the tip of a cotton swab to reach underneath trim and remove trapped dirt. If your brush won't remove the build-up of dirt use a sharp single edged razor blade to gently remove the dirt from your glass. Take care not to push your razor blade too far under rubber seals as this may cause leaks. Stay clear of defroster strips on rear windows that are not embedded in the glass. Cutting the defroster strips will render them useless. Follow up after the razor blade with your brush and glass cleaner.

Microfiber Cloth

Recently, the car detailing industry was introduced to a new cleaning cloth originally designed to clean semi-conductor manufacturing plants (often called "clean rooms"). The revolutionary new cloth is a polyester/polymide woven fabric that is non-abrasive and hypoallergenic. Soft like silk, yet tough as a bulldog, the cloth attracts dust, grime, oily films and salt residues just like a magnet. The cloth's patented surface structure contains 90,000 micro fibers per square inch. These "micro-hooks" grab, lift, and hold dust and grime without the need for cleaning solutions.

When used damp on glass, the cleaning cloth, which we call the Miracle Towel, cleans windows by pulling dirt and oils into the cloth. The ultra fine structure of the Miracle Towel leaves exceptionally small water beads, which dry without spotting. For perfect glass, follow the damp Miracle Towel with a dry Miracle Towel. Your Miracle Towel can be used damp or dry. When used dry, it works like a chamois. The super absorbent weave holds up to seven times its weight in water.

To date, I have not found a cleaning product that can match the ease of use or result of the Miracle Towel. If you regularly maintain your windows, the Miracle Towel is the best overall substitution to chemicals and terry cloth drying towels. Unlike terry cloth or other cotton towels, the Miracle Towel will not leave lint or cause streaking. The Miracle Towel will not, however, remove sap, tar or hard water spots from your windows. These problems will still require the use of chemicals.

Other Tips & Hints

For long road trips and unexpected problems, keep a cleaning cloth in your glovebox. I have found the simplest solution to window cleaning away from home, comes from P21S. P21S makes a product called Windshield Wipes, which are a sealed pouch containing a cleaning cloth and a drying cloth. The cleaning cloth has a strong cleaning solution that cuts through most glass problems.

Chips & Nicks

Touching up small nicks and scratches is well within the skill of most do-it-yourself car enthusiasts. Some nicks can be quickly repaired with a small dab of touch-up paint, while others will require more time, effort and skill. It's important to know what you should and shouldn't tackle based on your knowledge of paint and tools.

By far the easiest colors to repair are black and white. Black and white are very forgiving on shade variations. Conversely, metallic paints (those with Flakes) can be quite difficult to match perfectly.

Before you get started repairing nicks and scratches, you should know what to expect. Small nicks are easy to repair by filling the nick with paint, leveling the filled area, and buffing the repair area to blend and restore luster. Repairing small scratches, from a key or shopping cart, is similar, but more time consuming. Fixing a ding (a small dent which may or may not have a nick out of the paint) is not commonly possible by the do-it-yourselfer.

Here are some other things you should know:

1. If you know your car's factory paint code, you can purchase an exact color match touch-up paint from your local dealer. If you don't know the factory paint code, look in your owner's manual for the location of the code, or ask your dealer. If you have a late model car, chances are you will find a color match at your local auto parts store.

   Editor's Note: See color chips online at AutoColorLibrary.com, part of the TCPGlobal.com family.

2. Use a small artist's paint brush (#2 is ideal) or a round, wooden toothpick to apply the touch-up paint, not the fat brush included with the bottle of touch-up paint.
3. Always test the touch-up paint for color match in an inconspicuous area.
4. The area to be repaired must be perfectly clean and free of wax, rust and oils.
5. Don't attempt a touch-up if the temperature is below 60 degrees F.

Here's what you need to properly repair nicks and scratches:

1. Color matched touch-up paint
   
2. Automotive or metal primer
   
3. Citric acid based cleaner like P21S Total Auto Wash
   
4. Prep solvent (Prepsol) or denatured alcohol
   
5. Foam swabs (from electronics supply) or pop swabs containing alcohol
   
6. Meguiar's Unigrit Sanding Block and 600 grit wet & dry sand paper
   
7. Medium grit hand rubbing compound
   
8. #2 Artist's paint brush and round toothpicks (wood)
   
9. Cotton terrycloth towels
   
10. New Pencils with unused erasers
    
11. Rubber cement
    
12. Plastic cups
    
13. Blue masking tape (easy release type)
    
14. Large diameter paper hole punch (hand type)
    

Preparation Process

Before applying paint, you must prepare the chip to accept paint. Although paint may adhere for a while to a chip with rust, dirt or oil, eventually the repair will fail. The preparation process begins the day before you repair the paint chips and scratches.

The afternoon before starting your chip repairs, wash your car. After washing with your normal car wash, spray the areas you plan to repair with P21S Total Auto Wash, allow to sit for a minute, then scrub well with your sponge. P21S Total Auto Wash will remove all wax and oil from your paint. Dry your car thoroughly and put it away for the night.

After washing your car, make up several sanding pencils. Use a hole punch to punch out a few dots from the 600 grit wet and dry paper. Apply the sandpaper dots to the end of your pencil eraser with rubber cement. Allow them to dry over night. You will use the sanding pencils to scuff-up and clean out nicks.

To make a chip ready for touch-up paint, you must make sure it does not have loose edges, clean it and sand it. I use a toothpick to check the edges of a chip. If loose or lifted, I use the toothpick to knock off the loose paint. To clean, I like to use denatured alcohol or Prepsol and a foam swab. I pour a little bit into a plastic cup and use a foam swab to clean the chip and surrounding area. Next, I use a sanding pencil to cleanout the chip and rough-up the edges. Simply dip the sanding pencil into a cup of clean water, dab a few drops of water on the chip, and gently rotate the sanding pencil over the chip. Keep the area you sand as small as possible. Rotating the sanding pencil back and forth in your fingers 8-10 times should be enough to do the job. If the chip has exposed bare metal, or if you can see rust forming, use the edge of the pencil erasure to remove the rust. When finish sanding the chip, dry it with a terrycloth towel and clean it again with Prepsol and a foam swab.

The Touch-Up

Once the damaged areas are cleaned and prepared, you can begin the touch-up itself. If a chip exposed bare metal, you must primer the chip before the color touch-up. After mixing thoroughly, pour or spray a small amount of your primer into a plastic cup. Next, use a clean toothpick to apply the primer. I do this by dipping just the tip (2-3 mm) of the toothpick unto the primer. If I get a blob, I wipe it back. Next, I touch the tip of the toothpick to the center of the chip and allow the paint to flow off of the toothpick into the chip. You will be amazed how well the capillary action works. If you prefer, you can use the #2 artist's brush. Do not allow the primer to overflow the sides of the chip. Allow the primer to dry for 2-3 hours. You can speed dry the primer with a hair dryer after allowing it to air dry for one hour. Simply wave the hair dryer 3-4 inches over the primered chip for 30-40 seconds. Do not touch the chips with your hands, as the oils from your skin will prevent the color coat from adhering.

Now, mix your color-matched paint thoroughly and pour a small amount into a clean plastic cup. As with the primer, use a clean toothpick or #2 artist's brush to apply the color coat. Touch the toothpick or brush to the center of the chip and allow capillary action to pull the paint into the chip. Apply a small dab at a time and allow it to dry for 2-3 hours. You must repeat this process several times, so don't try to fill the chip in one pass. Apply several thin layers, and you will get much better results.

The color touch-up process is complete when you have applied enough coats to slightly overfill the chip onto the roughed up area surrounding the chip. Once you've filled the chip, allow it to dry for another 24 to 48 hours. The longer the better.

I'm often asked if it's necessary to apply a clear coat over chip repairs. I don't think it's necessary of adds any noticeable difference. If you get the proper touch-up paint from your dealer, it will match without using a clearcoat. However, if you're a purist in persuit of perfection, substitute a clearcoat for the last 2-3 coats.

Level and Buff

Until you level or mill the paint repair down to the same plane as the original paint, all you'll have is an ugly looking blob. This is easily done using the Meguiar's Unigrit Sanding Block, which helps remove sags, runs and other isolated defects with surgical precision. Don't forget to soak it over night before use as the directions indicate.

To level your paint chips, use you finger to put a small dab of car shampoo on the chip repair for lubrication. Next, use the Unigrit Sanding Block to mill the high spot off of the chip repair. I always pull the sanding block towards me. Never rub it back and forth or in a circle. When the block dries out, dip it into your bucket of water again. Keep the area well lubricated with water and shampoo. The sanding block will dull the paint. Don't fear, as your polish will easily restore the luster. When the surface looks level, dry it with a clean towel and inspect with your finger tips. If you can feel a high spot, it needs more work.

The final step is to buff out the repair with a good hand polish. I like to use Eagle One Scratch Remover (a medium grit compound) followed by Meguiar's Hand Polish. Apply the compound or polish to a clean terrycloth towel or applicator pad, rub into the paint area using a short back and forth motion (not in circles), then buff out with a clean terrycloth towel. Tada! The blemish is gone.

The clear coat layer on your car protects the color coat beneath while enhancing its depth and brilliance. However, as soon as you take your car on the road, environmental forces begin to attack the clarity and reflective gloss of your pristine finish. The result is oxidation, swirl marks, fine scratches and other blemishes, not to mention the bonded contaminants that regular washing can't remove. Day after day, the harsh road environment degrades the surface of your car's clear coat until it's no longer as smooth as glass. Without special attention to remove these environmental contaminates, even the finest wax can't restore your car's finish to its original reflective gloss.

Waxing

There are two ways you can determine the condition of your car's paint surface. Visually, you will notice specs of dirt, blemishes and dull areas. With your hand (after washing), you will feel contaminates. These are all indicators that it is time to deep clean your paint and apply one or more coats of wax.

In general, there are two kinds of pre-wax cleaners. The first is a polish, which is a cleaner with a mild abrasive (compound). The compound in polish helps to remove dead paint (caused by oxidation), tar specs, water and acid rain spots, bug remains, and other contaminates. Polish also smoothes the paint surface, improving gloss. Used properly, a good polish will also remove swirl marks and other minor paint blemishes. Most good polishes contain natural oils to moisturize the paint, which further adds to the gloss.

The second type of pre-wax cleaner is a true cleaner, not an abrasive. These products use citric acids to deep clean the paint and remove wax. Like a quality polish, pre-wax cleaners add oils to your paint to feed an enhance gloss. These products can be pricey due to the pure oils, including Apricot Kernel Oil, Montan Oil, Coconut Oil, Lemon Seed Oil, and others. You can think of these products as a body lotion for your car.

If you have a convertible, after you wash is a good time to protect your canvas top. The pre-wax cleaner will remove the top protectant over-spray. However, you should take steps to prevent as much overspray as possible.

To properly apply a pre-wax cleaner (or polish), first thoroughly wash and dry your car as usual. Using a terrycloth applicator, apply your pre-wax cleaner to one body panel at a time. The best method is to pour a quarter size dab on your applicator, rubbing it into your paint in a strait line (front to back) with medium to heavy pressure. When the surface becomes slightly tacky, gently buff the panel to a high-gloss with a clean terrycloth towel. Rub your hand across the clean surface to determine if it needs a second cleaning. The paint should feel silky smooth. If you feel small bumps, you need to clean again. You'll know it's clean when a clean terrycloth towel "squeaks" when rubbing the paint. When your applicator pad gets gummed up, rinse it out and squeeze out the excess water. Remember, the pre-wax cleaner is removing dead paint and contaminates, so rinse your pad.

Most pre-wax cleaners and polishes dry to a light film. It should buff off with minimum effort. If the film does not buff off easily, you may be using too much cleaner/polish, you may be letting it dry too long, or your buffing towel may be dirty. Don't let the cleaner/polish sit for more than 1-2 minutes before buffing off. If you get streaks, re-apply a smaller amount of your cleaner/polish and re-buff with a clean, dry terrycloth towel.

Once cleaned, its time to wax your car. If you want the "Ultimate Concourse Winning Shine," you'll be applying two coats of wax. If not, a single coat will suffice.

For the concourse shine, start with a coat of cream wax. Most cream waxes are designed to go on easily and buff off with little effort. If you have an exceptional glaze, such as Pinnacle Souveran or Zymol Concourse, apply two light coats of your high quality wax.

Apply and buff the first coat of wax, as normal, and allow it to cure for 12-48 hours. Follow with a second coat. Note that the first coat of wax must have time to cure. If the wax does not cure (harden), the second coat will not improve your car's appearance or protection. Properly applied, you will see a noticeable improvement in depth, richness of color, and gloss with the second coat of wax. Additional layers are far more subjective to most people, although many concourse winners use many layers to produce the desired depth.

What do you do if, after all this work, you still have streaks and areas that don't want to polish up? There are several tricks, but the easiest is to park your car in the sun after waxing for 10-15 minutes. Let it get warm, but not hot, then take it back inside the garage. Next, using a good spray bottle and distilled water, schpritz a small area and buff with a clean terrycloth towel. The warmth of the car softens the wax, allowing it to polish to a clear, high gloss. If you don't have distilled water, use a detailing spray, such as Meguiar's Final Inspection.

From Web-cars.com:

Five Steps to keep your car looking its best.

1. Avoid scratches like the plague

We start with scratches. Why? Because they are the biggest enemy to your car's finish. And avoiding scratches is the secret to keeping your car looking good. Dirt and grime, rubbed in while washing or drying, will act like sandpaper and dull your car's paint. There is one basic rule which will guide you whenever you touch the surface of your automobile: Anything that comes in contact with your car's finish should be soft.

2. As much as possible, protect your car's finish from the elements.

This means storing the car in a garage or covered area. Also, the use of a car cover is highly recommended. A car that is constantly exposed to sunlight and other environmental hazards will deteriorate quicker and require significantly more cosmetic maintenance.

3. Always keep a good coat of wax or paint sealant on the car.

In addition to providing gloss and depth, wax will also protect your car from the elements, including sunlight and many other circumstances that you will encounter, from bug carcasses to bird droppings.

4. Be aware of your car's finish.

Make regular quick inspections of your cars surface a habit. Look it over and note its condition, keeping in mind its recent history and what you anticipate will happen in the future.

5. Make a habit of detailing your car.

In most cases, washing your car once a month is adequate. Once every two weeks is better and necessary if the car is subject to harsh conditions

Chris McKnight in Tulsa wrote;

Exterior/Waxing

• Waxing Products: The type of wax you use is really up to you, but I like Meguire's Products because they work well for me. If you prefer to use another manufacturer that is alright. Whatever paint products you use, use only that manufacturer. For instance if you use Meguire's wax then also use Meguire's polish and Meguire's car wash soap. My reasoning for this is that the engineers designed their products to work well with each other. Therefore Meguire's wax may not work as well with Turtle Wax soap, or polish.
  
• Decals: Don't worry too much about the decals. Wax will not hurt them. Just try your best to wax around them. If you do get wax on them the just buff it off very lightly. You don't want to damage them by buffing too hard. If you get dried wax build up on the edges then get an OLD USED SOFT TOOTHBRUSH. Use it to lightly brush away the dried wax.
• Body Seams: You can also use the toothbrush for removing the dried wax build up between body panels, like where the front fender meets the front bumpercover.

Interior

• Stains: For stains on the carpet and seats I use a product called Blue Coral Carpet Stain and Spot Lifter, it is some sort of liquid stain remover that comes in an aerosol type can. You just spray it on then blot the stain up. It worked really well on some tar I had in my carpet. If you get something different, just read and follow the directions.
• Cleaning Carpet: For cleaning all the carpet I use some foaming carpet shampoo call Dri-Clean, and it's in a blue aerosol type can. Vacuum out the car before you use any of the cleaner, just to get out any big stuff like rocks and leaves. The shampoo will get all the little stuff. I think that you spray it on then use a semi-stiff bristled brush to brush the foam into the carpet then let it sit for about 5 min. then vaccum up, with a Shop Vac. I really recomend a foaming type cleaner however, because it will not get the carpet wet. I am afraid that if I were to use soap and water that the carpet would hold water and rust out my floor pan. If you really want to clean all of your carpet then you can even take out your seats. The fronts come out with about 4 bolts at all four corners. The rear seat bottoms have one bolt in the bottom front center, it is there but it is really well hidden. Then once the seats are out, you can use the shampoo on the seats and door panels as well.
• Cleaning Interior Plastic: For the rest of the interior I like to take as many of the little things off as I can and clean them individually with dish soap and warm water. For example I have cleaned the shifter plate, cover plate of the radio and A/C controls all of the vents and some other small stuff that I can't think of right now. Basically anything that will easily come off. When I took the vents off I also cleaned out the vent ducts as much as I could, with a damp paper towel, and I replaced the felt feet that keep the vents in place. There is a tech article on www.Thridgen.org on out to do that.
• Dusting: To dust things like the dash I like to use one of those Swiffer things that you see on TV every now and then. It is like a tissue, but it statically picks up dust. I just wipe everything down. Dash instrument cluster, arm rests, steering column, etc. I also us a cheap 1 or 1/2 inch paint brush that I put electrical tape over the metal part of the brush and half-way down the bristles to stiffen it up some and to make sure that it doesn't scratch anything. I use that to dust out all the little nooks and cranies, then wipe the area with the Swiffer. Sometimes I also use the brush attachment for my shop vac to dust out the interior.
• Making Things Shine: Sometimes if I want my black plastic to shine I will use Meguier's Shine. I don't recommend Armor-All because I have heard that it will dry out your dash and cause it to crack.